4 Comments

Such an interesting post. I too once went to Chiloé, once had an "authentic" cilantro in a restaurant that was nowhere near as colorful as this one you describe. The reaction of others in my party was interesting--just sort of "meh," a typical reaction I think when flavors are subtle but not intense. And of course, speaking of pit baking immediately reminded of our lobster/clam bakes in Maine, probably an equally ancient practice although decidedly not imported by Polynesian explorers.

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I hadn't thought of a clambake when I wrote this piece, but you're exactly right, no Polynesians were involved in that tradition.

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Ok, we were planning to stop in Chiloe in December because of blue whales. This, like the last related post, has us salivating (we tend to give our taste buds a hefty vote in our travel planning!). How long would you recommend for the island--assuming a great deal of flexibility, no substantial cost limitations, and driving/hiking up from Port Arenas to Santiago?

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I'm very pro-Chiloe. I was completely enchanted by the place, so I'm probably not the best person to ask about how long to visit. I would imagine that for an ordinary person, at least three or four days would work. You'll want to tour the wooden churches and spend some time hiking along the beaches. For me, Chiloe was less about the sights than about the general relaxed vibe of the place. (If you're in Santiago, you have to go to El Ancla in Providencia, my favorite seafood restaurant in Chile.)

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